The Grand Tour

Knossos

(via the port of Heraklion)

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An old fort of the middle ages still guards the habour entrance at Heraklion, but otherwise there is little to recommend the city of Heraklion itself, except as a gateway to Knossos.

No one knows for sure where the Minoans originated, but it seems likely, especially when looking the frescos and faces of those depicted in them at Knossos, that Egyptians immigrated to Crete founding the Minoan culture. Knossos is the site of King Minos' Palace, who according to myth, was the son of Zeus and Europa. Poseidon gave Minos a rare white bull to be sacrificed but when he refused to make the sacrifice because of greed and arrogance, Poseidon punished Minos by causing Minos' wife to fall in love with the divine bull producing a half human, half bull monster called the Minotaur which Minos imprisoned in the Labyrinth. Because one of Minos' sons was killed in Athens during the Athenian games, Minos imposed a tribute of seven young men and seven maidens to betheseus.jpg (64392 bytes) sent annually as food for the Minotaur. It was the hero Theseus who eventually ended the tribute by entering the Labyrinth and killing the Minotaur. And, to honor him, when Theseus died he was entombed in the Temple of Hephaistos, near the Acropolis in Athens. This myth is the subject of Mary Renault's well known novel The King Must Die, published in 1958.

There is no doubt that Twain and his fellow "pilgrims" would have been fascinated byevans.jpg (33765 bytes) Knossos, but alas the site was completely unknown in 1869, though surely Twain and most other Americans heard much about the discovery later in the 19th Century. The first artifacts from the site were recovered as early as 1878. Many, including Heinrich Schliemann excavator of Troy and Mycenae,  tried to buy the site from its Turkish owners but none succeeded until a British archaeologist and keeper of the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford, Sir Arthur Evans, finally negotiated the purchase in 1900. Evans' name has since been strongly connected to this site and today, a bust of Evans stands near the entrance to this historic site. Excavation of Knossos continues to the present.throneroom.jpg (54964 bytes)

propylaeum.jpg (47000 bytes)The site of Knossos is extremely interesting and has produced many objects which have been used to illustrate countless textbooks, and are thus widely recognized. This phenomenal Palace covered about fivedoubleaxe.jpg (33912 bytes) and one half acres and was made up of procession.jpg (33128 bytes) many rooms and related buildings. The Throne Room has been reconstructed as well as the King's Megaron (chambers) and a portion of the Propylaem, with its processionladiesinblue.jpg (45068 bytes) fresco. Everywhere the Palace incorporated brilliantly colored frescos incorporating double axe heads, bulls, stylized, bull horns, dolphins (as in the Queen's Chamber), and many other symbols important in Minoan culture. One fresco in particular appears to illustrate aqueenschamber.jpg (58305 bytes) ceremony involving acrobatic maneuvers over the back of a bullbulljump.jpg (53184 bytes)

 

 

The site is also an interesting study of issues related to preservation. Evans and others have been widely criticized for taking "too many" liberties in reconstructing Knossos. Very little of what one sees while visiting thesnakegoddess.jpg (22004 bytes) site is genuine, and it can be argued bull2.jpg (21265 bytes) that the site is as much about the imagination of those who have reconstructed it as it is about what once really exited there. Of course, the frescos and other decorative objects at the site now are reproductions, the genuine frescos (what little is actually left of them) and other articles having been placed long ago in the collection of the nearby Herakleion Museum. Though the building and exhibits are not impressive, a visit to the Museum is a must, to see the famous bull's head rhyton and the small statue of the Snake Goddess, if nothing else.

In any case, we know for certain that this Minoan palace was in use for over six centuries, even surviving the earthquake caused by the eruption of the nearby volcano of Santorini. But, around 1300 B.C. the Palace was destroyed by fire and eventually the once great Minoan culture disappeared altogether.

 

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